Tuesday, 28 July 2026

Vancouver - Day 6: Chinatown/Gastown & Crab Feast

We woke to a lot of rain again, but the forecast claimed it would be gone by 1pm or so, so we gamely set out for Gastown/Chinatown on our Gemini-designed walking tour. 

First stop: brunch at Mead & Bread, a well known Vancouver sandwich eatery.  


We got there around noon and there weren't many people around so they had our order ready very quickly. It was kind of interesting watching them make the sandwiches right in front of you. 

One porchetta and one meatball. Side of mustard for both. Verdict? Very very good. The porchetta averages a 3.75 and the meatball averaged a 4.0, but to establish how well regarded these were, neither sandwich got a score lower than 3.5 from any of the judges. 

Very conveniently, a purebread branch was just next door so we were able to sample a few more bars. Here's the cookies & cream bread: just 3 stars. This might be my least favorite of all the Purebread offerings between today and yesterday. Takeaway: get brownies/bars, not sweet cakes/breads. 


R revisited the banana chocolate brownie.  Just as solid today as yesterday. 4.25. 

I went out of my standards and got the caramel chocolate bar on the advice of the worker. 3.75 stars. 

Baba went for the sour cherry cheesecake bar. 3.75 stars. 


After this we headed towards the heart of Chinatown. Here's the Millennium Gate (seems like a must have in every Chinatown, no?) erected in 2002 in celebration of the new millennium. 


The main tourist site here was the historic Jack Chow Insurance Building (now turned into a kitschy animatronic Giant Panda tourist attraction), which has the honor of being the skinniest building in the world (what you see below is it's entire width, a little under 5 feet). 


The original building was 30 feet wide, but the government exercised its taking powers to expropriate 24 of the 30 feet, leaving him with only 6 to use. Chang Tow (land owner) refused to just abandon the last 6 feet and instead built a full commercial building, including a larger basement that went out into the street more (notice the "windows" in the street in front of the store to let in natural light for the basement). 


I had planned to stop at the Sun Yat Sen classical Chinese garden...but it was closed! 😭 There really wasn't much else we wanted to see in Chinatown so we quickly moved on over to Gastown. Chinatown...is not exactly the nicest part of Vancouver, in terms of homeless population, drug use, general grime...the twins were not eager to longer. 

Over in neighboring Gastown, we made our next culinary stop: Soft Peaks organic soft serve ice cream. 


We got classic chocolate and milk tea with pearls. The mix of all three together in one bite was the clear winner. I would give that 4 stars. 


The main attraction for Gastown was the steam clock, which was constructed in the 1970s seemingly as a tourist attraction. It was kind of interesting to watch the system of pulleys and weights that help it run. 


I kind of wanted to wait for the "show" at the top of the hour but I was overruled by the rest of the family who were eager to get back to the hotel pool. We did catch the quarter hour mini-show so got a sense of what it would be like. Interesting...but not mind blowing. 


The walk back took us next to Canada Place and the cruise port. It was a little sad seeing the Princess ship docker next to the water - wish we were about to board a cruise! The view from the pier was quite lovely too. 


Back on the city walk, we passed by this building with a public art display wrapped around its middle bearing the following message:  "lying on top of a building…the clouds looked no nearer than when i was lying on the street." I choose to interpret that as commentary about wealth and prestige...they don't really matter in the greater scheme of things. 


We also passed this beautiful floral display celebrating Pride. 


I forced everyone to take a slight detour over to the Pendulum Gallery in the HSBC building. Sadly the huge swinging pendulum was stationary today because they were installing some new exhibits...but you couldn't tell since it's a still photo anyhow. 😆 


I wasn't keen to go to the pool myself so I suggested we do one more detour over to the local supermarket to grab some Canadian gifts/snacks for friends. We ended up with quite the haul. I suspect some of these presents for "friends" will somehow end up being consumed by our own household...


And with a couple hours to spare before dinner, we headed down to check out the pool. Though the pool was indoors, it had this lovely little outdoor terrace area with loungers and trees. I really enjoyed just lying there for an hour or so while the others hit the hot tub. 


Tonight, we were meeting my friend S (and her 1 year old daughter) at Dynasty Seafood for a live Alaska king crab dinner. 


It was really alive and moving still. I noticed it had some black marks on the shell which would make it easy for us to confirm that it was in fact the same crab being served. 😆 


L was brave enough to actually hold the live crab! Check out that size! And this was a SMALL specimen at only 5.8 pounds. They easily get up to 12!


We got the crab three ways: first, steamed legs. Very tender, sweet, fresh -- 4 stars. Made me realize how salty the frozen ones become probably from being packed with salt for preservation!


The second course was battered and stir fried with ginger and scallion. There were 3 other recommended preparations that were allegedly more popular than this one (chili, too spicy for the kids, cilantro, R is anti-cilantro, and salty egg yolk, which S and I love but my family sadly does not). For being only fourth on the recommendation list, I still found this quite tasty! It was probably my favorite course - 4.5 stars. The big difference for me in terms of the crab meat compared to Dungeness is that it is sweeter and more tender, flaky almost, but not in the bad mushy, I keep repeating myself, but it was a fresher texture. 


And finally, the main course of crab fried rice. Kids said this was their favorite. I'll give it a 4.25 because I found it a smidge on the bland side (which I easily compensated for by adding some pea shoots and green onions from the other dishes). 


Dinner was definitely pricey but for me worth it from a "seeing what all the hoopla about live king crab is about" perspective. Would I do it again? Probably not. The difference in taste compared to a rock crab or Dungeness was real but not enough to make up for the price difference. Which makes me all the more grateful to S for being willing to drive the 50 minutes in rush hour to join us! And with a one year old too! 

When we got back to the hotel, it was only 7:30 -- too early to just turn in for the night, so Baba and I headed out in search of a sunset viewing point. We first tried Parker Rooftop...drinks were fine, but the view wasn't amazing (Gemini recommendation fail!).

We could see the sky starting to turn pretty so we slammed the drinks and did a speed walk down to Sunset Beach. Got there just in time as the show was getting good. They had these big logs perched on the beach that were perfect for sunset viewing. 


Lots of folks were out there creating their perfect Instagram shots. It was a more interesting scene than other sunsets because of the number of boats and paddleboarders and hydrofoilers. 


Had to throw in one photo utilizing my newfound vertical panorama skills. 

Eventually the colors started fading and the air started turning nippy so we turned around to walk back to the hotel. I was again grateful for how centrally located it was -- maybe not 5 min to much besides shopping but at a 20 min walking radius basically we could hit everything in downtown Vancouver. One last parking nighttime shot. This is the futuristic Butterfly Tower rising out of the historic First Baptist Church. 


And that's the end of today. Tomorrow is our last full day in Vancouver! 😭 

Monday, 27 July 2026

Vancouver - Day 5: Sea-to-Sky Drive

So...more plan changes due to rain forecasts. We were supposed to do our self guided food tour this morning but the forecast for tomorrow is showing a lot of rain...so we pulled a switch and decided to take our rental car today and move the Chinatown/Gastown walking tour to tomorrow. Due to all the rain, we also scrapped our planned Squamish Chief hike which would have been both slippery and cloudy. Instead, I spent an hour or two at midnight planning a new driving and lookout-heavy road trip itinerary of the Sea-to-Sky Highway. This meant I was up and standing in line for our Avis rental before 8am to get a full days drive in (thought I was the early bird? There were a good 5 parties ahead of me already! 😆). But things were fairly quick so we were actually out and on the road by 8:40 or so. Very impressive for us! As you can see, lots of rain driving out of Vancouver...the forecast claimed it would lighten up as the day went on though...crossed fingers that bears out...

We drove to the farthest point first, all the way up in Whistler, stopping for brunch at the Vancouver-famous Purebread Bakery - there are lots of locations now but we visited their original location in Function Junction. We ordered a variety of bars and sandwiches. Honestly ALL were very good. Two thumbs up all around.  


Banana chocolate chip brownie. R reluctantly shared a couple bites before claiming the rest. 4.5 stars. 


L with her ooey gooey chocolate bar. Also very good. Sweeter than the banana. Still 4.5 stars.


Our favorite sandwich, the zesto pesto. 4 stars. I am not a bread person but I could tell this bread was GOOD. 


The ham sandwich...forget the name. Good too, but not as good as the pesto. Let's say 3.25 stars. 


We also got a raspberry cheesecake brownie bar which I neglected to photograph. Wasn't anyone's favorite but the competition was fierce. On its own, would still have gotten at least a 3.75 if not a 4. 

It was getting closer to noon so we wrapped up the leftovers for hike snacks and started on our 6-stop scenic tour. First off: Whistler Train Wreck hike. 


Disclaimer, I knew it would be a drizzly day, so none of the hikes were longer than 2 kilometers. And all of them had clear "destinations" at the ends. This train wreck hike wound through some forested paths. Bear warning signs abounded, so the twins got to show us their seasoned bear warning calls. Clearly no bears were going to be surprised by our presence. 


The trail also involved a small suspension bridge (always a hit). 
 

There was also this natural eddy that was spinning some errant logs round and round.


Soon we arrived at the main event--the seven abandoned railway cars from 1956. 


So...why are they in the middle of a forest with no railway visible? How could they have fallen/travelled so far? Well...turns out they just jumped a rail, but were stuck in this narrow part where it would have been very hard to lug them away to repair the rail (plus they were significantly damaged and declared not able to be used further). So the local lumber company who was hired to help with the clean up intentionally dragged them to this part of the forest to get them out of the way. There, the boxcars were stripped of anything useful and then the empty containers were left to rot. 


Because they are just out in the open and known as a tolerated canvas for tagging and public art, the graffiti that covers them is constantly changing. Sometimes established artists will actually come and paint actual murals and images too...but then within a few weeks those will get covered up again with graffiti and tags from other people. We should have brought some spray cans and left our own mark! 😆 Instead, L and R climbed up and got some stretching in. 



Baba noted that if this were a US state park, they definitely would not have left the railings on there for people to climb up. Such a safety hazard! I did actually see some kids barely walking who were coaxed up by their families. Maybe Canadians are less litigious.

I thought I had been wise to put the train wreck with the longest hike at the beginning when energy was fresh...but it was met with a lot of grumbling and complaining because everyone was worried all 6 stops would be like that. I had to throw a mini Mama tantrum of my own reminding folks that I was only accepting POSITIVE energy. It seemed to work -- they went back to posing dutifully for photos. 😆 Next up, the Brandywine Falls trail. 


A very short walk later (I think about half a kilometer), we saw a very picturesque scene:


Even L admitted the payoff was pretty good for such a short hike. 


If only there were blue skies! But the views were quite nice regardless. 


The hike to the falls included these very interesting moss covered boulder fields too -- 


Next stop: Tantalus lookout, which offered clear views of snow capped mountains across wide chasms...or so we imagine, because all we could see was mist and clouds today. Good thing it's just a quick pullover on the side of the highway!


Our next stop was Shannon Falls Provincial Park, which is right under the Stawamus Chief (cool granite monolith you see here). I actually snapped this photo as we were leaving to show how far back the line of cars waiting for the parking lot had gotten (peaking out under the sign to the right there). When we got there, it was about 4-5 cars long and we waited about 10-15 minutes for a spot. By the time we finished, time stamps say we spent about 30-40 minutes there in all, the line was a good two dozen cars long all the way back to the entrance. Glad we beat that rush!


But anyway back to our hike. Our original plan, had there been no rain, was actually to hike that monolith - it is not a long hike but allegedly involves a system of chains and ropes and such to get up (so cool!). Well...apparently the granite can get kind of slippery in the rain. My Google feed gives me too many stories about freak climbing accidents so no Chief peak hike for us. 😢 


This was another very short hike. But ended with a great spot for a family photo! The Shannon Falls are over 300 meters high, making it the third tallest waterfall in Canada. 


The area under the falls offered some very tempting river rock scrambling opportunities. Mama leading the way! (I am not sure if I should be proud of this, but after we did this, dozens of other families started going in the river too 😆).


Ah the looking away contemplation shot.


R hesitated to join us at first but couldn't resist the photo opportunity. 


But she then took a little too far...and lets just say eventually she had very very cold feet. (Alas I didn't capture the actual missteps that resulted in wet sneakers...but they went considerably farther than I did).

But that was the last "hike" of the itinerary today. We had a couple more scenic stops. Here's the view of Howe Sound and Garibaldi Provincial Park from the highway pullout. It was actually very cool watching the mist seemingly rise up and evaporate as the clouds cleared up. It actually looked like there was a giant vacuum in the sky just sucking up the mist clouds!


Led to what I think is our most picturesque stop of the day: Porteau Cove.


We all look so nice! (How was it done so well you ask? Because I set up the shot myself and then used the Pixel Add Me feature! 😁 Okay fine, so my eyes do seem to be looking off at a slightly different location than everyone else. I blame Baba for failing to stand in the exact same spot as me). 


Highly recommend the stop here on any Sea to Sky drive - crowds were very reasonable and parking was ample compared to Shannon Falls. 


With the clouds clearing, we decided to add back one last stop to try and get the whole Vancouver skyline view. We would have gone up the Sea to Sky Gondola at Squamish on a clear day, but the live webcams there had been showing a lot of rain and mist. But given our great views at Porteau, we decided to try our luck at Cypress Mountain (apparently Vancouver has a ski resort a mere 8 kilometers away from downtown? I imagine the ski runs aren't amazing but still, that is proximity you cannot beat!). We only went halfway up the mountain because the top was likely mist covered again but the view of Vancouver from Cypress Lookout was pretty good!


One last girls photo -- R is holding our final bite of Purebread brownie there. We made it stretch until the last stop!


We packed ourselves back in the car and headed back to the Avis return lot. Well. Apparently 8 kilometers can take you 45 minutes during rush hour. And we didn't even hit the worst of it we were told! So...maybe Vancouver as a vacation home candidate requires one to be fully retired so you are never in rush hour traffic going over the bridges. 

It was now almost 5 and I was worried if we went back to the hotel we would not come back out...so we decided to walk out towards our original dinner destination for today, Phnom Pehn. It's a restaurant with a Cambodian name offering Vietnamese food in Chinatown. 😆 I was a little apprehensive of going because it's gotten very very touristy. We saw the walk in wait time grow to two hours while we were waiting for our table.

First up, the famous butter beef appetizer. I will confess. I totally thought butter beef was going to be an Indian curry style dish. This was definitely more of a Cilantro-heavy beef carpaccio. Nice flavors, refreshing, beef quality was good...but I wouldn't call it AMAZING...maybe 3.5?


The fried rice on the other hand was a solid 3.75. Though admittedly we are a family that heartily enjoys yang chow fried rice. This wasn't the best yang chow fried rice ever, but it was solid. 


The noodles? I would give it just a 3.5 at most. It was a little dry. The noodle soup version probably would have been better but Baba was not feeling soups. Pork was tasty though. I bet the bun vermicelli noodle would have been really tasty. 


The fried chicken wings were very very good. We would go up to a 4.25 for these. Very nice lemon and pepper seasoning.


Garlic Chinese broccoli. Maybe 3.25? Flavor was fine and I devoured them because I was eager for greens. But this wasn't anything extraordinary. 


Mango and strawberry smoothies. I'd go up to a 4 for these. Paired well with the food and the fruit flavors were strong. 


All in all, I would say the food was good...but for our family, we probably would pick more classic Chinese flavors. 

We headed back to Sutton Place and changed into pajamas for Nezha 2...only to discover we couldn't find a version with English subtitles but original audio. I refused to watch it with dubbed voices. Twins and Baba worried they wouldn't catch enough without subtitles (to be fair, some of the characters had some pretty strong regional accents). So we ended up watching Chang An San Wan Li instead (animation about the lives of the famous Tang dynasty ports). I actually hadn't heard of Gao Shi before amongst his more famous Li Bai, Du Fu, etc so I personally enjoyed the history lesson in movie form. It was a bit long/slow though. But all good because tomorrow we have no morning plans! Sleeping in!