Friday, 28 August 2009

Day 8 - South Africa - Elephant Plains

We woke up at 5:30am to our "wake-up knock" (no phone for a call) and headed directly to the Land Rover for our morning drive. Everyone was groggy, but eager to find out what the wildlife was up to. Eco-tourists going on these safaris typically hope to see the "big 5": elephant, rhino, lion, leopard, buffalo. Add to that your cheetah and wild dog (both much rarer in the Sabi Sand reserve) and you've got your "big 7".

Spotted a few large birds sitting in a tree silhouetted by the rising sun. I don't remember what kind these were. In fact, there were many times on the drives where I should have been writing down species and interesting wildlife tidbits given that Richard was narrating as we drove along. I was too enthralled to think of it at the time though.


Birds of prey were commonly seen perched on branches with an eye out for the slightest movement of their next meal. I never saw one swoop in for a kill though.


Saw a few zebra grazing along the side of the road.


The fun part of this particular drive, though, was watching the elephant herd stomping around, eating, knocking over trees, etc.


The babies were especially cute.


Sometimes the elephants would come quite close to the Land Rovers. If they felt threatened by us, they would flap out their ears to make them seem even bigger in hopes of intimidating us. When they realized we weren't scared, they simply turned around and ignored us. Generally, animals will try intimidation and avoid resorting to a physical fight (unless they see you as food I guess.)

When the babies try to be intimidating, they get even cuter.
After watching the elephants for a long while we stopped for some tea.
After a little more driving, we headed back to the lodge and had a little breakfast. Then we went on the bush-walk. Walking around, everything suddenly seems bigger than when you are in the Land Rover. The termite mounds, for instance, are massive (and they are pretty much everywhere.) As I understand it, two-thirds of the maze of tunnels that make up the dwelling is underground.
A close-encounter with some warthogs was the highlight of this walk. Ming was struck by how much warthogs really do look like Pumba from the Lion King. It was a comment that I heard two or three other visitors make. I realized, that the poor rangers must get tired of hearing that all the time... it was all I could do to keep Ming from bursting out into a verse of "Hakuna Matata." (ahem, I would like to chime in here that Ian was actually the one who eventually started singing the words to the song).


We headed back to the lodge, and I zonked out for a couple of hours before our 2:00pm lunch Ming went to the gym and worked out... I don't know where she gets the energy.


After lunch (which seemed to consist of similar food every day... kinda reminded Ming of summer camp), we set out for our afternoon drive. We came upon a lone buffalo at a waterhole, which stared at us for a looong time before ambling off.


Next we spotted our first giraffe. Richard explained that by some unknown natural phenomenon... once you have broken the first-giraffe-spotting barrier, you tend to see them everywhere. He was right.


We even saw a baby...


They are such strange animals...


Squirrel sightings were also quite common.


We saw Salayexe again on this drive. She was Richard's favorite of the 15 (or so) leopards in the Sabi Sand Reserve, so he liked to check up on her. Here's a shot to prove I was just a few meters away!

She was resting...

Never disturb your mother while she is resting...


The Land Rovers were often followed by these relatively small black birds which flitted from treetop to treetop as we lumbered along like a four-wheeled elephant. They follow the larger animals around the bush so that they might feast on the insects, which often accompany the slower beasts as they plod along.

As the sun was setting we ate pickles and cheese (an odd combination I must say) and had our sundowners. Before heading back to the lodge, though, we tracked down the fourth of our big 5 (having seen leopard, buffalo and elephants already.)

The pride was asleep. From what Richard was saying, it's not uncommon for these cats to sleep for 20 hours a day. To cool themselves, they'll raise their paws in the air. Doesn't it look like an oversized house-cat just itching to have its belly rubbed.


As night fell, they began to stir.


But they always looked half asleep.

So much for the king of beasts.


We let the lazy cats be and drove back to the game lodge. We had dinner outside around a nice fire and the occupants of each Land Rover (there are three that go out each time) told stories of their sightings.

Thursday, 27 August 2009

Day 7 - South Africa - Sabi Sand

A morning flight out of Jo'burg got us into Hoedspruit around 12:30 (delayed an hour because the entire Jo'burg radar system malfunctioned.) We were met at the airport, shown in the previous post, by a friendly South African woman named Colleen. She drove us along the1.5 hour journey to the Elephant Plains game lodge.

We got there just in time for a little lunch before the afternoon game drive. Game drives are held every morning at 5:30am to around 9:00am. That's when the guests get breakfast. At 11:00am there is a "bushwalk" where you head out of the lodge with a ranger on foot (a forbidden activity otherwise.) On a typical day, you come back from the bushwalk ready for a nap in your nice, comfortable rondavel:

At 2:00pm you grab a leisurely lunch while you wait for the 3:30pm game drive to begin. You head out in the Land Rover for another 3.5 hours, watching the sunset from a scenic point along the way. The rangers even pack along a "sundowner", a beverage you specify before you leave.


The ranger drives the Land Rover and a tracker sits on a special seat on the hood looking for animals. Sometimes the Land Rover drives straight over small trees. Most of the time it's the dead or thorny ones so I don't mind, but the poor tracker basically acts as a bumper before these plants are plowed under.

Some animals are deep in the bush, while others are right in the middle of the road. Not 3 minutes into our first drive, our road was blocked by this Yellow-billed Hornbill in the midst of eating an apparently scrumptious scorpion.

Once the Hornbill, the pigeon of the bush, finished his meal, we headed off for the rest of our afternoon drive. A few moments later we saw this cute little mongoose. He'd be one of many we would see along our drives.

As a side-note: the camera we got as a wedding-present for the trip is fantastic! The 20X optical zoom has been essential for sooo many game drive photos. Most people out here seem to have really expensive SLR cameras, but it seems like only half of them really know how to use them. If I had gotten an SLR, I would have been one of the bumbling half, and most of the animal pictures would have been a blur. With a high-end point and shoot, however, I was able to tweak the settings when I had time, and to go for super-easy "a-computer-can-do-it-better-than-you" mode when the subject was darting across the screen.

Our prize sighting of the day though, was Salayexe, the leopard. A lot of these animals are territorial, and thus the rangers will see them time and again on drives, which they do morning and night for six weeks straight before getting a two week vacation. In any case, they often give the cats in particular names. They even have monthly newsletters so that fans can keep up to date on the latest antics of their favorite animals.


Our first view of Salayexe wasn't picturesque. In fact we barely saw her before she wandered down into the riverbed out of sight of our Land Rover. Thats when Richard (our ranger) and Clement (our tracker) hopped off the vehicle, leaving the six eco-tourists alone in the middle of the bush.The payoff was worth it though, because they were able to track her back to her two cubs (not yet named.)

The cats are typically named after 10 months. I imagine that 10 months is about the time when they leave their mother and the rangers are relatively sure they'll be able to make it on their own. If you name them earlier, I imagine it would be even sadder if one got eaten by a hyena. Sometimes, in an interesting twist on Darwanism, the cubs will be taken out by a male leopard (not the father), and the killer will mate with the newly childless mother. Anyway, all we saw was a happy leopard family resting in a riverbed, and that was perfectly fine by me.

We hopped out of the Land Rover and had our sundowners by a small waterhole where we watched a lone hippo snorting about. Apparently this guy was sort of an older hippo that got pushed out of a bigger waterhole a few kilometers away. And so the soap opera of the South African bush goes on...


Some buffalo stopped by the waterhole as we finished up our drinks. It's amazing how confident an animal is when there's water between you and it. Well, actually, these buffalo were not worried about us anyway I guess, given that they could flatten us pretty quickly if they had deemed us worthy of their time.


Altogether it was an extraordinary first drive, and to top it off, we got back to our room to find a bottle of Champagne waiting for us, complements of Elephant Plains.

Touched down in Hoedspruit

Just made it through the rigorous security checkpoint:


We are now headed to Elephant Plains game lodge.

Ming now thinks Hoedspruit's airport is officially the coolest airport of the trip, inching past Koh Samui due to it's van-pulling up to the curb with your luggage baggage claim and the "please follow me through the dirt" airport terminal walkways.

-- Post From My iPhone

Headed to Sabi Sands

Headed to Sabi Sands on this tiny plane.



They just warned us that changing seats before takeoff might affect the balance of the plane.

-- Post From My iPhone

Wednesday, 26 August 2009

Casino fun!

No pictures for this one (cameras aren't allowed), but wanted to inform you all (especially Beth and Trevor) that I won 60 Rand at the blackjack tables! ...almost made up for Ian's losses...maybe if we'd had another hour to spare before our flight...


-- Post From My iPhone

Tuesday, 25 August 2009

Remove your bag tags

Got this friendly tip from someone at the bus terminal.


Apparently criminals identify foreigners by the fact that their luggage has tags. Johannesburg has the reputation of being one of the most crime-ridden cities in the world, so we are playing it safe. We'll be hanging out mostly at the hotel casino. We will probably make a trip out to "the biggest mall in Africa" but that's about it.

The hotel shuttle seems to be taking it's time picking us up from the airport... So we have ample time to update the blog.

-- Post From My iPhone

A preemption to Ian's gambling tendencies...

As the sign in the airport lobby wisely says: "winners know when to stop."


-- Post From My iPhone