Monday 27 November 2023

Costa Rica Day 1 - transfer to Pacuare

I consider Monday technically still day 1 of the trip because we didn't get in to our hotel until after midnight.  A sign that I've moved to a new phase of travel style? I knew the "official orange taxi" people waiting by baggage claim were unlikely to be the true "official" taxis and probably would have an upcharge, but...it was past midnight and they promised to use a meter at least. Even the taxi folks in the airport didn't speak a ton of English, which was the first of many instances to come where I wish I had the kids with us so they could amaze people with their Spanish skills. Next time!

We had a 6:15AM pickup scheduled, so it was basically just a quick nap. We rolled out of bed, put on our rafting clothes and stumbled half asleep into the shuttle van. I didn't realize the drive TO the take out point would be quite so long, at least the scenery along the way wasn't bad.

We stopped for a quick breakfast where they actually had you grind your own beans for the coffee. Ian said it was pretty good. I tried to order a hot water with lemon and honey...and quickly discovered that the bees and wasps like this drink as well...will have to stick with normal tea! Again, at least the view was passable. 


Somewhere around 10:30, we got to the river. We would be spending the next two nights at Pacuare Lodge, which, up until recently, could ONLY be reached by white water rafting. (We learned that they've since opened up a land route so you can opt to take a 4x4 to the lodge as well). The sun was still shining at this point...look at us all happy and looking forward to our type 1 fun.


The guides had informed us that the trip out to the Lodge was short and easy (only Class 1 and 2 rapids) so we were expecting a pretty low key experience.


Pacuare Lodge is located pretty deep into the jungle here, far away from basically everything else. Their website notes that all food and supplies are transported to the Lodge by raft and ultimately taken in via a hand pulley system. This rope "elevator" system is actually used by the indigenous people who have lived for centuries in the mountains to cross the river. We passed by one elevator with one of the locals crossing and it looked TIRING. And even after crossing, he would have to walk for hours to reach his actual house. 

Back to us on the raft, while the rapids were tame, the water was a bit chilly, but more problematically, the clouds were getting ominous. Time for our first Costa Rican thunderstorm! 


I chose the back intentionally as the "dry"er seats in the house, there are no more photos of the trip but suffice it to say I legitimately worried we would be struck by lightning and the rain came down HARD.

When we got to the lodge, we were greeted with warm towels (you cannot imagine how good they felt) and cups of some hot, cocoa-y tea drink that were amazing. 


We were told that the storm actually took down a tree blocking the road passage so our luggage actually wouldn't arrive for another hour or so. No worries, the rooms had robes and more importantly, lovely hot water showers.


I wish I had taken a photo of the room itself, but it was really really nice, white flowy curtains all around, thatched bamboo roof, and constant birdsong (sadly I don't know all of their names, but highlights were the yellow tailed Montezuma somethings, toucans, and these little bright red ones). After lunch, we napped for a good 3 hours or so to catch up on that sleep debt. But then as the sun went down, it was time for the night hike!


What follows are a bunch of spiders, frogs, snakes and other such cuddly animals encountered on our hike:

Strawberry poison dart frog

Male glass frogs (see the little brown specks in those transparent eggs? Those are the tadpoles!)


Spider actively capturing its cricket prey




And time for dinner -- it was very good, I know they said Costa Rica isn't known for its food, but the meals at the Lodge were all quite tasty, especially the cerviches and pokes. I wish I had gotten to try the grilled fish but we ran out of meals!


End of Day 1! The storm had also taken down the wifi network, so I was down by 9pm. Funny how sleep is easier when there is no internet...

1 comment:

  1. Looks fantastic! May put that one on THE LIST

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